for a menu item. JFC, this is pretty straightforward but was a fiasco
to get right because I was using a MediaWrapper as the icon, and something
wasn't playing nicely (not yet debugged), but the error looked like
it was with the Menu superclass.
Also set all CommandMenus to have variableRowHeight.
git-svn-id: svn+ssh://src.earth.threerings.net/nenya/trunk@266 ed5b42cb-e716-0410-a449-f6a68f950b19
Ray Greenwell